Buzzards Bay Circuit

Voyage #20 of 2015

29 July 2015

Sunny, 93F

LW 1215

HW 1915

Sunset 2004

Winds SSW 11-17, gusts 20

Waves SE 1-3', 8 seconds

35.2 nm

8hr 52min

I have been growing more confident in single-handling 'Piao,' which I do more often than not.  For some time, I have been itching to do a more substantial solo sail down to the Woods Hole area at the western end of Cape Cod.  I few times I have set out for Quisset, a lovely little harbor, but aborted the trip due to unfavorable winds and lack of time.  One such recent sortie was on July 26, when I set out at noon on an overcast day, following morning rain showers, with reefed sails in the face of southerly winds of 10-15 (gusting 20-25).  Within an hour, the chop on Buzzards Bay had built considerably.  But what I found most uncomfortable was the periodicity of the three to four foot choppy waves.  Sailing as close-hauled as possible (Piao does point nicely into the wind), the bow seemed to crash into the oncoming waves every one or two seconds.  THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD THUD. Not pleasant.  The foredeck would bury itself under water each time the bow dipped into the next wave.  At least the anchor locker is getting flushed clean, I thought as I watched the water race aft along the sides of the deck.  It took me three hours just to reach Bird Island, where I threw in the towel and turned for home.  Flaking the sail in four foot seas is not fun, either.

Just about everything fell onto the cabin sole during the THUD THUD sail -- even stuff that had supposedly been "secured"

A few days later, I tried again and finally made it to Quisset.  Packing an italian sub, a greek pasta salad, several litres of water, and a bag of Cape Cod chips (just in case I got hungry), I sailed off the mooring at 1130 in very brown-looking water.  After a short reach out to the rocky shoal called Little Bird Island, I put her on a starboard tack and for the next three hours sailed southerly, close-hauled, towards Woods Hole, averaging about 5.9 knots with a 35-degree heel.  A couple of times the gusts lay Piao over a bit more so that the bubble on the 'Level-O-Guage' was maxed out beyond 45-degrees.  The helm got a little sluggish when sailing heeled over to that degree.  I was very happy to have the jackline and tether.  By 1:00pm I had raised Cleveland Ledge Light on my starboard beam, and an hour later I was off Gunning Point, still pulling 5.8 knots.

Close hauled and heeling enroute to Quisset

I reached Quisset harbor at 2:05, furled the jib, and motored in.  Quisset is a horseshoe shaped natural harbor: a picturesque overnight destination and a well-protected sanctuary from the Buzzard Bay chop.  

Multimillion dollar homes dot the shore, million dollar boats occupy the moorings, and the yacht club overlooks all from the commanding heights of a hilltop.  My plan had been to moor here for an hour or so to have lunch.  But I soon discovered that Quisset has no harbormaster -- rookie mistake, broadcasting a hail on VHF 16 to someone who does not exist.  I didn't know what to do, whether I could just snag a random empty mooring, or drop an anchor.  Later, I learned that you can simply tie up to an empty mooring and eventually some dudes in a small inflatable will come by and collect a modest fee of $10-20 ($30-40 for overight stays).  Too bad for Mr. Ignorant.

Entering Quisset

After slowly making my way to the head of the harbor, carefully threading passed the young kids racing dinghies, and waving greetings to all the people on the expensive boats (this was a sailboat harbor, and sailboaters are generally much more friendly than powerboaters), I turned around and headed back out, wolfing down my Italian sub before I reached the harbor mouth.

Leaving Quisset

Clearing Quisset at 2:50, I thought I would sail across the bay to Fairhaven or New Bedford.  But then I realized that I was so close to Hadley Harbor that I may as well put in there for a look-see as well.  So I put the helm over, rounded Penzance Point, and sailed across the western entrance of Woods Hole to the mouth of Hadley Harbor on Nonamesset Island.

Entrance to Hadley Harbor

Hadley's has a tricky, very narrow entrance.  But inside is a really lovely anchorage (grassy bottom).  Bull Island (public picnickers welcome) shelters the inner harbor.  I furled my jib, loosed the mainsheet, and motored in to explore.  Hadley's is a favorite overnight destination of our new neighbors across the street (the guy who did not offer to help me wire my radio, after I dug his pickup truck out of the snowbank).  I could see why.  When I make my Vineyard trip next year, I'll put up for the first night in Quisset or Hadleys (Quisset, being on the Cape, affords the opportunity to get some food; Woods Hole is a short walk away, just over the hill).  I thought the sailboats in Quisset were big and expensive, but now I discovered that Quisset was only minor league.  Here I found major leaguers.  Okay, be REALLY careful not to hit anyone.  I motored up to the head of Hadleys, gawked at the money as nonchalantly as possible, Captain Dicky-Dork in his tiny 23' O'Day, Tilley hat, and oversized 'Grandpa' sunglasses (that mortify the Admiral with embarrassment).  I lingered in Hadleys for about a half hour before heading back out around 4:30 under full sail.  

Hadley Inner Harbor

Thinking about this as my next boat......

Now I thought I would swing down and make a loop around the Weepecket Islands, before starting back.  But suddenly a heard a loud BANG and felt a slight jerk.  I looked immediately to the mast, and noticed that the metal loop holding the boomvang to the mast has snapped.

Oh, Shit

I spilled the wind and furled the mainsail, thinking I would have to limp home under the jib alone.  My speed fell from 6 knots to 1 knot.  I tried to call the Admiral on my cellphone to inform her that I would be returning later than planned and that she should not worry, but it went to voicemail.  Then I realized I could jury-rig the boomvang to the base of the mast, and a few minutes later, once again happy to have a tether and jackline (thank you, Bob), I was underway.  

Boomvang quick fix

I bagged plans to sail down to the Weepeckets, thinking it more prudent to head for home.  I shaped my course across Buzzards Bay toward Mattapoisett, figuring that if I had to put in somewhere for the night it would be more convenient to be on the mainland.  When I reached the other side, I discovered that Wednesday night is race night in Mattapoisett, and I had inadvertently sailed into their race course.  I put the helm over and headed back out toward the channel.  Once clear of Mattapoisett, I turned again toward Marion and sailed in toward Sippican harbor, only to discover that Wednesday night is also race night in Mattapoisett, and I had inadvertently sailed into their race course.  I put the helm over and headed back out toward the channel.  It was a long sail home.  The night before had been very hot and humid (we did not run the A/C unit), and I had only slept a couple of hours.  Being on the water always makes me yawn, and now as sunset neared I could feel myself growing weary.  I just wanted to take a little nap.....

Home at last....

When I finally arrived back at Dexters Cove, I found the Admiral and the kids waiting for me on the dock.  That was a really welcome sight, and a big surprise.  I was very moved.  Coming ashore, we headed home together.  I wanted three things: shower, gin bottle, and sleep.