23 August 2014

On My Fecal Roster

Ah, hubris.....

In the days following my Pocasset sail, I went out a number of times both alone and with friends, smugly hoisting my mainsail all the way to the top of the mast by muscling it with the winch.  Arrrr, Matey, I was becoming a sailor.

Avast!  One afternoon I went out to the boat and noticed that the two of the four screws that hold the boomvang to the mast had been pulled out of the mast and were dangling in the screwholes on the boomvang fitting.  The boomvang, for those who know less than I do about sailboats, is a device that uses ropes and pulleys to keep the boom from rising when the mainsail is set.

The boomvang runs from the underside of the boom to the base of the mast

It seems Mr. Three Stripes had been neglecting to release the boomvang prior to raising the mainsail. In effect, the taut boomvang prevented the sail from rising all the way up to its fully deployed position.  Ooops.  So, after all, it was not a fouled block or line at the masthead; nor was it that the boatyard guys rigged it improperly during launch; nor was it that the previous owner was aware of some problem but fiendishly conspired to keep it secret from me.  It was all my fault.  Gilligan.

Boomvang closeup, showing the screws that I tore out of the mast base with the winch (A),
and the line that should be released prior to hoisting the mainsail (B)

The tension of the winch-load had stretched and slightly warped the boomvang fitting at the mast base, and the two upper screws had been stripped from their holes in the mast.  I had to replace the screws with the next size up because all that pulling had enlarged the holes into which they should be secured.  Fortunately, it was a minor and easy fix, but I could have made a big mess of things if I hadn't diagnosed the problem correctly before I created real trouble.

By mid-August a new and chronic problem had arisen: bird shit.  There are a fair number of birds -- mostly gulls, terns, cormorants -- that frequent Dexter's Cove to feast on the little minnows and other fish that team in the quiet waters of the mooring field.  At low tide, the rocks that protect the inlet lay exposed and the birds often rest there, as evidence in their white graffiti.

Mooring at low tide, with the rocky shoal exposed just behind the stern of Piao

Mooring at high tide, with the rocks submerged

When the rocks are underwater, the birds look for other places to land.  They ignored my boat throughout May, June, and July.  But in August they have become frequent and unwelcome visitors, apparently having taken a shine to my boat as a great place to defecate: 'I like it here so much I could just shit.'   Each time I came out to the boat, there would be a half-dozen or more splatters on the deck and in the cockpit.  Some were thin white puddles that washed away easily but left lingering stains; others were hardened dribbles that resembled cement spilled on the deck; a few were large and substantive, containing enough meaty remains to make an educated guess about what the bird had eaten.  It was nasty.  In three weeks, I went through two bottles of boat soap just cleaning up after my unwanted visitors.  Then the other day, there were so many turd-bombs that I had no choice but to bring the boat over to the dock in order to hose it down and scrub it properly.

Piao at Dexter's Dock
(Did that maneuver single-handedly, by the way.
Sometimes it is easier simply to do things on one's own, rather than try to get an
opinionated Admiral to listen to instructions about which lines should be cleated where)

People have different strategies for dealing with the bird shit threat.  You can buy plastic owls and set them on your boat, hoping that the 'natural predator' will scare the birds away.  But you have to move those owls every day or the birds get wise to you.  I have heard tales of people returning to their boat to find the plastic owl covered in bird shit.  They also sell plastic snakes, but Dylan is deathly afraid of serpents, and it is hard enough to get him on the boat anyways these days.  Some of my mooring neighbors have 'gull-sweep' type devices consisting of a horizontal bar with little red tabs that is affixed to the roof of the boat and spins or rotates in the wind.  But they have powerboats, whereas I do not want to screw the mounting base of such a device onto the roof of my cabin because one often needs to walk or step there.  Then some friends told me that I could get 'gull-sweep' devices (or something functionally similar) that mount on the deck rails fore and aft.  That is on my shopping list.  In the meantime, I have rigged a rudimentary air defense system for Piao using clothes pins and fishing line.

Piao air defense system 

This is an old trick that can work wonders.  They use fishing line at some marinas to prevent birds from landing (and shitting) on docks and railings.  I spent almost an hour tying fishing line to clothes pins and then stringing the line back and forth across the boat, a few inches above the deck.

As twilight approaches, our ambush is set and ready:
look carefully and you will see fishing line strung criss-crossed above the deck

I worried that the first time I take down all that line and pins, it will become a hopelessly tangled mess. But I was proud of my makeshift solution, which effectively covered all areas of the deck where the birds had been crapping.  If I ever put it up again, I will have to remember to start at the bow and work aft toward the cockpit.  Otherwise, one must step carefully between the criss-crossing fish line, in 'Mission Impossible' fashion, lest one trip and fall.  I had just finished and opened a ice-cold beer to relax and enjoy my accomplishment when....

SPLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT!

If, as the Chinese say, it is good fortune for a bird to shit on you, 
then I am buying lottery tickets this weekend.

An enormous diarrhea bird turd sprayed all over the cockpit, splattering on the cockpit port coaming, the cleat, the winch, my beer, my bag, my shirt, my arms, and my face with bird shit.  At first I was stunned and did not know what had happened.  I honestly thought it had suddenly started to rain.  But then I saw the devastation, and then I smelled the rich fishy scent of the poop.  Then I looked up and saw the little fncker -- a big-ass cormorant -- sitting atop my masthead.  I swear he was looking down on me, completely oblivious to my shouting and gesticulating.  If I had had a gun, I might have tried to shoot him.  But all I had was the halyard, which I jangled violently to chase him away.  I had to empty my cooler bag of ice melt water, along with four water bottles, to clean his smelly mess.  I was pissed.  It was very hot and humid, and after all that work I had only that one beer with me.  I drank it anyway, flavor added.  Finally, I climbed down into the dinghy and rowed toward the dock.  But as I pulled away from Piao, I saw that the cormorant had returned to occupy his perch atop the masthead.

You sonuvabitch....

I used to like cormorants.  Visitors to China can see fishermen on rafts using the birds to catch fish.  The birds are tethered to the boats on long straps.  They dive into the water to pursue fish.  A removable ring affixed to their neck prevents them from swallowing the fish completely.  Instead, as they return to the raft, the fisherman massages the bird's neck and forces it to regurgitate the fish into a collection basket.  No hook, line, pole, or bait required.

Fishing with cormorants in Guilin, China
(credit: http://www.shelleylake.com)

So I have eaten fish caught by cormorants, and I have tasted fish-bits shat out by cormorants into my beer.  Now I wonder what cormorant meat tastes like......

22 August 2014

Long Beach

One day in early August, the Admiral suggested we take the boat and go to Long Beach for the day.  She bemoaned the fact that, although we live in a coastal community, she had only been to the beach once this entire summer.  Our neighbor friends, who have a 250hp Grady White powerboat, and a daughter who graduated from Stony Brook University (my workplace), had told her about this pleasant beach on the Wareham River that was only accessible by boat.  Time was of the essence, she insisted.  There was not a moment to be lost.  No sailing.  Just motor over there.  Orders from the Admiralty.


Long Beach Point is a sand bar that at low tide is an exposed spur of land on the eastern bank of the Wareham River, not far from its mouth.  It is a small and pleasant beach, with relatively few visitors, some of whom come to dig for quahaugs.  But the beach is there only at low tide, and one must plan a visit with due consideration of tides, and navigate the tricky channel at the mouth of the Wareham River.


From downriver, the channel hugs Cromeset Neck on the western bank of the river until navigation aid Red 10, off Nobska Point, where it turns to northeast.  Particular care is warranted in a keel boat when approaching Red 12, off Long Beach Point: at low tide the water between the red nun and the rocks on the Point is barely a foot deep.

Lee-Ann stands at the tip of Long Beach Point near ebb tide

My First Mate tries to remember the mantra, 'Red-Right-Returning,' but he sometimes confuses his right with his other right when verbalizing.  In practice however, he knows to keep red nav aids to the right (starboard) side of the boat when returning to harbor from the sea.  Around the northern side of the spur lies a shallow anchorage.  On most days, with the typical Buzzards Bay southwesterlies, that would also be on the more sheltered leeward side of the little peninsula.  A larger sailboat with a deeper keel could not anchor in such shallow water -- four feet or less at low tide, depending on the spot.  But our O'day 23, with a retractable centerboard that can be raised up inside the keel, can draw less than three feet of water.  

At low tide I walked out to the shallows south of Point,
the water never coming more than halfway up my shins.
Note to self: not a good place to bring the boat.

When the Admiral plans a beach outing, it sometimes seems to have the logistical complexities of marine expedition.  There is a cooler bag for drinks, and a cooler back for food.  There is a large beach bag with towels and various other assorted items.  There is a bag for beach toys.  There are "noodles" for the kids to use when swimming (which we now stow aboard the boat).  There is her personal bag.  There is her daughter's personal bag.  There is her daughter's personal beach towel bag, because she wants her own.  Fine.  Of course, I have my yellow backpack 'float bag' that I always take when I go about a boat.  It requires a whole trip to ferrying that stuff ashore in the inflatable dinghy, which we usually tow behind us during beach visits.

Lee-Ann rows the kids ashore.  Good form.  Lots of practice rowing those whaleboats.

At low tide, and the hours preceding and following, the sand bar is exposed high and dry.  If you arrive before low tide, you have to keep in mind that the water will continue to recede a bit, and be sure to leave yourself enough room to anchor safely, as the boat may swing in the breeze as it rides at anchor.  

Long Beach at Low Tide
Looking ESE from the Point

Long Beach at High Tide
Looking ESE from almost the same spot

The shallow protected anchorage is a great place to do some minor maintenance and cleaning of the hull below the waterline.  Standing chest-deep, it was easy to wipe of loose algae-like growth with a sponge.  The expensive ablative bottom paint I used doing an excellent job of keeping the hull clean and clear of barnacles and other growth.  However, I did not paint the bottom of the dinghy with anti-fouling paint.  In mid-August, we had to haul the dinghy out of the water, bring it home, and scrape clean its bottom, which had become encrusted with barnacles.  Someone advised me to pour a vinegar solution on them to loosen them.  It was nasty.

Our inflatable dinghly, 'Mein Kraft,' hauled out for a bottom cleaning

Barnacles.  Ouch.
Gonna have to do something on RufDrafts about Barnacles.  Stay tuned....

The First Mate gentle scraps away with a putty knife,
after boat bottom has soaked overnight in a vinegar solution

The kids love Long Beach.  It is easy to get to for us, doesn't require sailing ("aw, do we have to?"), and offers lots to explore.  They love to catch little crabs, shrimp, fish, shellfish, or whatever.  At low tide one can walk way out on the shallow flats to the south (seaward) side of the peninsula, while fish swim by your feet.

 Long Beach Point as the tide runs out
We had to move our inflatable dinghy further up the beach several times to keep it from floating away

Lee-Ann loves to collect beach glass.  I like sea stones.  We both enjoy gathering scallop shells. 

Disturbing the gulls on Long Beach Point as dusk falls.

Dylan after swimming back to the boat.
"Sorry, bud.  The dinghy is full of our stuff.  You have to swim out."

During one visit, we "rafted up" with our friends on their Grady White.  That was a first for me.  I think we handled it fairly well.

'Piao' and 'FundTimes' rafted together at Long Beach 

One problem with rafting to another boat in this anchorage is the fact that many powerboats come up and down the Wareham River at (arguably unnecessarily) high speeds, and throw up large waves in their wake.  I'm not sure if they do it intentionally, or out of ignorance and insensitivity.  But the effect is sometimes to produce a violent rocking that can jar together boats that are rafted together, creating greater risks of damage or injury.  In the 1700s, Wareham had been the home of the famous mariner Captain Kenderick (stay tuned to RufDraft for a post on him).  Today it seems to be home harbor for a lot of Massholes, as such folks are known in the Commonwealth.  One friend, who works in real estate, refers to Wareham as "Brockton-by-the-Sea."

 Lauryn said she was using the machine guns to protect the boat
Was it those rowdy Warehamites, running circles around our sailboat with their powerboat,
churning up big waves with their wake to make our boat roll?

Dylan and a friend play cards in the saloon during a trip home from Long Beach at twilight

We have made five trips now to Long Beach, and I'm sure we will be doing a few more before the end of the season.

21 August 2014

2014.VIII.7 - Voyage #23: Dexters-Pocasset


(Solo 4) Across to the Cape

2014.VIII.7 -- Across to the Cape

This narrative accompanies the Trip Plot posted earlier via the 'Captain's Blog' app

Voyage #23 (Solo #4)
Thursday, 7 Aug 2014
HW 1756: LW1044
Winds: NW 0-6
Waves: 0-2'
17.3 nm
5hr 33min

I headed out at 10:00am on a Thursday morning on my fourth solo sail.  I did not really have much of a sail plan in mind: get out on the water and go.  It was a sunny day with temperatures in the low 70s.  Winds were forecast to be out of the NW 9 knots, gusting to 14, although from the house they seemed light and variable.  Just go.

Motoring out to the R6 navigation aid at the mouth of the river, I set the mainsail.  All season long I have been having troubles raising the mainsail to its full height.  I haul on the halyard and it shoots right up the mast, but its stops about six inches from a black line near the masthead, which I assumed marks the optimal height of deployment.  Pull and tug as I might, even with the help of others, I just could not seem to get that sail all the way up to the top of the mast.  Consequently, there was a bulge in the sail at its tack, near the point were the boom attaches to the mast.


There is something wrong with this picture.
Try as I might, it just seems impossible to get that last half-foot of sail any farther up the mast.

It meant the sail was operating at less than optimal efficiency (although that was a given anyways, since the sail trim was in my rookie hands).  It was not a big deal; I could still sail like that.  But it bothered me, and it looked sloppy.  Something must be wrong up there near the masthead, I figured, perhaps with the blocks or pulleys through which run the mainsail halyard.  But hiring someone to go up there in a bosun's chair was just beyond my budget.  I was determined to look at it careful in the winter off-season, but for now I would just have to tough it out.

Then someone suggested that I use the winch on the halyard, pointing out many bigger boats have a winch (or winches) near the companionway, for help with the halyard and a variety of other tasks.  So I wrapped two turns of the taunt halyard around the starboard winch and began to grind away with the winch handle.  It took some effort, but the sail finally went all the way up!!!  I was so elated.

But my smugness quickly turned to anxious concern when I realized that I had failed to "tail" the line properly as I had worked the winch handle: I had not been attentive enough to guide the line as it came around and off the winch, and consequently the line had wrapped over itself on the winch and was now bound up tightly.  I was underway, the mainsheet was loose and the mainsail itself just luffing effortless, but I was unable to lower the sail at all.  It took some serious pulling before I was able to create enough slack to work the halyard back off the winch, and finally settle down.

Winds were light.  Sailing on the northern side of of Sippican Neck, I was making only 2.0 knots with the mainsail.  After five minutes, I decided to set the jib as well, but was discouraged to watch my speed drop to 1.2 knots.  Ten minutes later I had turned on the motor, determined to get out there one way or the other.  Perhaps farther out I might catch a better breeze.  It was shortly after low tide, and as I approached the shoal known as "Dry Ledge," I could see the tops of rocks above the calm waters.

Dry Ledge shoal
and Red 2 navigation aid marking the approach to the Wareham River

Having reach the open bay, I shut off the outboard motor and tried sailing with jib and main.  Top speed: 0.3 knots.  By 11:30, I was sufficiently discouraged to douse both sails and head for home under motor power.  But just as I neared the mouth of the rivers, a breeze picked up and I reset both sails, for a while was making 3.5 knots!  When the Admiral goes boating, she would prefer to add a digit to that speed, preferably to the right of the three and left of the decimal point.  But for me, three-and-a-half knots was just fine.

That's the way she likes it.
"Flying across the waves with nothing in my hand except a cold drink."
Well, you buy that boat, Dear.  I bought the sailboat.

Unfortunately, that breeze lasted maybe a quarter-hour, and then died.  Motor again?  Argh.  Yet as I looked on waters farther out in Buzzards Bay, they seemed to have wind ripples.  I again reset the sails and headed southeastward.  Clearing Great Hill, I met a light southwest breeze and sailed on a close reach at 2.0 knots.  By the time I regained Dry Ledge, the SW winds had picked up to 4.5 knots (according to my pocket anemometer), and I was cruising along at five-and-a-half knots, heeling fifteen degrees.  About a half-hour and a few tacks later I was off Piney Point; the winds had strengthened a bit, and the boat was heeling twenty-degrees.  I decided to run across the bay over to Pocasset, and make my first solo crossing to Cape Cod.

Across to the Cape

It took me about an hour to cross from Upper Buzzard's Bay from Butler Point (on the Marion side) to Pocasset (on the Cape), sailing on beam reach most of the way.  I was making 5.7 knots by the time I approached Scraggy Neck near Pocasset.  Suddenly my marine radio crackled to life with a Severe Thunderstorm Warning for the region, capable of producing nickel-sized hail.  Mariners were advised to head for shelter or safe harbor immediately.  Whaaaaaaaaaat?  There then followed a list of towns in the path of the storm track, all of which were well east of my position.  After listening to several repeat broadcasts of this warning, which was quite emphatic, I concluded that the storm did not pose an immediate danger to me.  I needn't run for shelter post-haste, but perhaps it would be prudent if I were to turn for home.

By 2:25pm I was back out in the middle of the channel, doing 6.3 knots amid two-foot seas.  Then I heard the deep rumble of thunder and looked leeward to see lightning flash across the sky over the Cape Cod Canal, about five or six miles to the northeast.

Thunderstorms over the Cape Cod Canal

On the way back across the bay, I hit a top speed of 7.1 knots, heeled more than twenty degrees on a port tack.  Yeeeeee-ha!


12 August 2014

#20 - Battered: Dexters-Cleveland Ledge

20 July 2014 (crew: LA)

Battered

Voyage 20

20 July 2014
Sunday
HW 0312, 1544; LW 0907, 2331
Wind: E 11-15; Gusts 20
Seas: 2-3 feet
Temp: 68F
Weather: Cloudy
4hr 34 min (1450-1920)
16.8 nm
3.7 kts ave


The Admiral suggested we go out for a Sunday afternoon sail, which pleasantly surprised me since she generally finds sailing too slow, too boring, and too effortful.

Setting out in mid-afternoon on an overcast day, we drove the boat beyond Cromeset Point and then set the jib, making 3.3 knots.  The wind was out of the East, which was unusual for that time of day on Buzzards Bay.  Once clear of Great Hill we also set the mainsail, and began to zip along at more than five knots, close-hauled and heeling.

The Admiral at the helm, heading out

"Now this is fun!" exclaimed the Admiral, who is more of a powerboat gal.  "If this is what its like when we go out, then I could learn to like sailing."

For a nautical chart of the region, click here.

We hit our top speed of 6.7 knots out in the middle of the navigation channel that marks the approach to the canal, where both wind and waves are often a bit stronger.  Then we shaped our course southwesterly and sailed on a broad reach for Cleveland Ledge Light, on the Cape side of the bay.

Cleveland Ledge Light

A couple of controlled jibes brought us around the lighthouse just before 5:00 pm, and we turned northward to head back across to the mainland side of the bay.  But I noticed that the shrouds on the boat (wires running from the mast to the deck that secure the mast upright in place), had loosened to an alarming degree.

Okay, this should not do that!

I thought it prudent to take down the mainsail immediately in order to reduce tension on the wobbly wires.  But this maneuver proved a little tricky.  We were still in the vicinity of the shoals at Cleveland Ledge, and the waves of the open bay were a bit more formidable here, rocking the boat considerably.  I asked the Admiral to take the helm and point the boat into the wind so that I could go forward and lower the sail.  She is still getting the hang of working the tiller, which many people find counter-intuitive at first.  So there were moments when she wanted to go right, but instead steered the boat left, and vice versa.  Meanwhile, I was standing at the mast, both arms hugged around it tightly, clinging on lest I get pitched into the water by the violent rocking of the boat.

"Can you please warn me when any big waves are coming?" I yelled to her above the wind, which was now blowing almost 20 knots.

"They are all big!" she yelled back.

Eventually I wrestled the mainsail down and was able to secure it with the sail ties.

Under just the jib, we sailed northward back across the bay towards Bird Island.  We needed to clear the eastern side of the island in order to head back to our mooring on the Weweantic, still several miles up the bay to windward.  But there was a good-sized powerboat sitting just south of Bird Island, with a bunch of guys fishing off its stern near (the ominous sounding) Centerboard Shoal.  The problem was that they were windward of us and anchored kind of where we needed to go.  


One option was to tack before we reached them, but this would mean a new heading that would take us back out into the middle of the bay.  The Admiral disapproved.  So instead we sailed west of them, off their stern, then tried to make our way up to Bird Island.  But wind, waves, and current conspired to make a hard time of it.  At several points, the stiff breeze would help us reach to windward a few meters, only to have the waves and current push the bow back to leeward, almost completely negating the hard-fought gain.  


I had a greater appreciation for the frustration, patience, and determination of sailing crews to get their ships around Cape Horn, albeit in much more dangerous conditions.  We must have really annoyed the weekend fisherman, or perhaps they were just getting as cold and wet as we were, because they suddenly pulled up anchor and blasted out of there.

"I am not really enjoying this any more," confided the Admiral.  "Can we just get home?"

At 6:00 p.m., we furled in the jib and started the motor.  Heading into the wind, and against the current and ebb tide, we were able to make only three knots even with the throttle opened about three-quarters.  It was a long drive back to Knob Creek.

Well, that was exciting....


The Admiral, bundled up against the wet and cold, eyes homeward....



Always remember: just like when hiking, on a daysail, you should think about turning back before you really want to turn back -- your turnaround point is really only your halfway point.

#18 - First Solo Sail: Dexter Cove-Little Bird Island

17 July 2014; Jib Only